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Thanks again for all the nice comments, I'm blushing over here!    

[QUOTE=CarltonM]
I'm curious as to why you started your 'burst with hand-applied water-based aniline, then switched to sprayed alcohol-based. From what I've read, the water/aniline tends to remain translucent, while the alcohol/aniline is more opaque. It seems like you might have gotten closer to the effect you wanted had you stuck with water-based, though I think it looks great as it is.[/QUOTE]

The liquid aniline stains that I use are the very concentrated "Colortone" ones that Stewmac sell, and they are completely translucent. I have used them to rub sunbursts before, and it works well too, but the alcohol doesn't dry up as nicely as the water and you sometimes get unevenness if you use too much alcohol with them. Since I had planned to use a shellac top coat on this one, using alcohol based stains would be very difficult as the alcohol would dissolve the colors and make a mess (I did try on scrap!).

The trick to getting even color transitions on spruce is to use lots of liquid, and the opposite is true for maple. On this one I lightly sprayed the top with water to raise the grain and sanded back 2 or 3 times, then sprayed again so the surface was pretty damp immediately before the really wet stains were applied with rags.   The maple parts were dyed with a lot less liquid, just enough so the colors would blend nicely and the dye would soak up well into the end grain part of the curly grain, which is important to intensify that amazing 3D effect. For me the hand rubbed, slightly uneven coloring is what gives the old time instrument much of their visual appeal, so I don't mind if it looks a little funky here and there. The problem is getting this type of burst dark enough, so after the hand applied colors were done, I sprayed a couple of shellac seal coats and airbrushed some tobacco brown wherever I thought it needed it (or I had something to hide!).Arnt38904.4420833333

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Amazing...I love the color! Like Russell said, the binding on the scrolls...just WOW!

Keep up the great work.   

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Joe Breault
Merrimack, NH
Perpetual novice

Arnt I wish I could add something meaningful to the above well deserved accolades. I am in total awe!

Really elegant inlay and color, superb workmanship
to be sure. The scroll work and binding is just
stunning.....You're going on my 'hate' list.

Arnt, that is spectacular! Very elegant.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Beautiful!

SK

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

See! I told you you were good!!! Dotson even hates you!


Really good work!

Other than the small spot you missed in the center of the paint, the Mando is perfect!

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Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)

That is one pretty mando - I love a good hand-rubbed sunburst, too.

Everything said above, again. So good I can't think of anything else to say! It's Mah-valous, really superb!

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

All I can say is, WOW!! Does it bark and bite? I'm also curious as to how you sprayed a shellack finish...what cut did you use, HVLP? I'm trying to learn how to french polish, but since I hate shoulder pain this might be easier..

Art

Arnt, i forgot to ask, how is the sound though just opening up, is it loud ringin'? IT sure must sound as great as it looks, just a pure delight for the eyes!

Art, I tried different amounts of alcohol with the shellac, I think most of is around a 2 lb cut. If it is too thin, it will run like crazy, so you have to work with your air pressure, distance and so on until you find something that works for you. I use a regular gravity feed touch up gun and compressor, same set up as for lacquer. If you try this, remember to clean your gun really well after each session, shellac will not soak away as easily as lacquer. I use blonde shellac flakes from Stewmac.

Serge, I think the sound is improving all the time, but to tell you the truth I have not been around enough quality mandolins to really judge how good it is. I played a Collins F5 at Mandolin Brothers in New York last year that really blew me away (so did the price tag!), it is not that good anyways. It does sound like an F though; cuts pretty well, nice chop and pretty clear. I wish you could play it and let know what you think!
Arnt38905.5439699074

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Arnt, all i could compare it with are the one of Mario's that he let me try and swept me off my feet and a Ovation one that i own But i'm sure i could easily fall in love with yours as well!

Mandolin music isn't really that big aruound the Gatineau area, huh? Same thing here; it's a shame!

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Arnt,You sure can count on me to spread the word of how great these instruments are though! Mandolin playing here is reserved almost exclusively to country music, a little for the Quebec traditional music also but that has got to change, this instrument sounds too nice not to be heard more often IMO!

Arnt, sorry to come to this late, I seem to have missed this thread, boy I'm glad I found it now. Let me just say that the picture of the back scroll is the most perfect piece of luthier I think I have ever seen. You are a man of immense skill and I feel priviledged to have seen it.   And yes I do love the sunburst on that Mandolin (just don't do it on a guitar OK)it just sets off the complex shape and that stunning binding, how on earth do you do that?

Much respect.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Colin you are too kind!

I have not sunbursted a guitar yet, but I'm not making any promises!

How is the binding done? With a lot of patience! Actually the binding ledge was cut on a router table, using a bearing rabbet cutter and spool clamps to keep the body level as the cutting was done. The scroll and inside corner parts all have to cut by chisel and a steady hand. The binding is ivorid and can be bent easily if you heat it with a heat gun. You have to be careful of course, it will ignite if you get it too hot. The ivorid binding is also excellent for this instrument as the mitres can be welded solid by using a "glue" made from binding material dissolved in acetone. If you have ANY gaps in the binding joints, the dyeing process later on will reveal it when the dye seeps in there and leaves a tell-tale line in your otherwise perfect joint... The binding was otherwise glued with surper glue.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Thanks for the explanation Arnt, it only adds to my respect for your skill. I've copied that picture onto my computer, if it's OK it'll be my new Wallpaper. Amazing workmanship.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Go ahead, I would be honored!

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Same here Arnt! Thanks bud!

Clean , very clean. You are indeed a true craftsman. Thanks for sharing
john hall
blues creek guitars